Archive for the 'moped' Category



coming out of retirement

i dragged this thing out from under a bunch of other projects and knocked the dust off of it.
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i pulled the head to install a new decomp, bolted it back on and fired it up on the 2 year old gas that’s still sitting in it. didn’t even bother cleaning the carb! ciaociao is back!
gotta replace the thrashed belt and oil-soaked rear brake shoe and maybe figure out some lights for it and it should be just about la rally ready.

i’ve been crazy busy lately and doing a bad job of keeping this thing up to date. i have some fun stuff to post about. i’ll get on that.

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moto guzzi trotter engine rebuild

since the trotter’s going to be my main rally squeeze for the landsquid rally later this month, i decided i should maybe tear into the engine a little just to have a look to make sure everything’s good.
i could get the engine to start up ok, but it wouldn’t idle and the crank seemed a little too hard to turn by hand. i figured worse case scenario the crank would be trashed and then i’d have to hack some other engine onto the frame. part of me thought it would be hilarious to graft a crazy big-boy kitted e50 or something into that little frame, but if the engine was ok, i wanted to just leave it alone and ride it stock.

first things, i wanted to check out the top end and make sure the piston and cylinder looked fine.

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the piston’s in great shape, though there’s quite a bit of carbon. i figure it’s probably from the old school oil from forever ago that it probably ran last.

look at the tiny intake port, it’s so cute!
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the exhaust is pretty tiny too, and also has some carbon to scrape out.
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once i had the clyinder off and the piston off the crank, i could tell something wasn’t right in the crankcase. the crank would spin, but not easily at all. the connecting rod bearing is in great shape and there’s no excessive movement anywhere, so there’s some good news at least.
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the trotter engine has the same flywheel taper as puch, and uses the same electronics, though this stuff’s a bit older than you see on most maxis. the points still have a lot of life and i was getting great spark from the coil, so i’m just going to replace the sparkplug wire and leave the rest alone for now.

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if all else fails i’ll just stuff something else in here.
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the right side crankcase half came off pretty easy, and i was able to see why the crank was kinda hard to turn right away; the main bearing has siezed and the crank was spinning in it.
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fucker bearing rusted solid.
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no big deal though, turns out this engine uses your standard 6203 main bearing, same as puch and a bunch of other guys.

also, can we take a second to just look at how weird this engine is? so weird.
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last time i removed the clutch i noticed the bell doesn’t just come off and i didn’t have time then to explore it more. turns out under that top hat seal thingy there is a snap ring that holds it on the crank.
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crank out, thing’s a weirdo.
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the crank has a nice sized oil groove in the big end of the conrod, and really wide triangle spacer washers between the conrod and the lobes, allowing lots of oil to get up in there.

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so i got this far planning to just replace the bearings, make a new gasket for the case halves and put it all back together, but i figured i might as well pull it all the way apart and replace all of the bearings and seals.
actually, i didn’t replace any of the roller bearings in the transmission as they were all in great shape so i just did all of the big bearings. i’m getting ahead of myself here.

before tearing into the transmission, i decided to make sure the crank was salvageable. since it spun in the seized bearing, the new bearing would slide right on. not having access to a new trotter crank, i decided to go the hillbilly rout and dimple the bearing surface.
i’ve done this before on vespa large frame clutches when they would spin the brass bushing and the customer was too cheap to replace anything, but i’ve not done this on a crank before.
but whatever, it’s a moped. plus i have a set of e50 cases sitting on a shelf just asking for an 80 kit.

i went around the whole crank and made a bunch of dimples with my center punch. a bunch of them.
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i totally didn’t take any pictures of the new bearings on the crank, but they pressed on nice and tight.

since the crank is fine, i tore into the transmission.
the sprocket on this thing really needs replaced but i’ll never find a new one. oh well!
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i kind of really sucked at getting pictures of this stage. whatever, if you ever end up with a trotter and need help rebuilding it just email me.
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engine cases all stripped down. well, except the studs. they were kinda stuck and i didn’t have a good rease really to pull them so i left them.
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most of the rest of the engine in a bucket.
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so i grab all four of my old seals and the two big bearings from the transmission and hit up the internet to see what i can find.
i am able to find three of the four seals on amazon and get them on their way, but one of the crank seals is a weird size that is apparently impossible to find on u.s. soil. i forget what sizes everything was, and everything’s at the shop 80 miles from here so i’ll leave a comment on this post tomorrow with bearing and seal sizes on the off chance of anyone ever needing to know.

i find my weirdo seal on this awesome website out of great brittan called engineersmate.com, not only do they find it, but they have it super cheap, and shipping was like $3 or something! i went ahead and ordered it, not knowing how long it would take to get here.

fast forward a week and my two transmission bearings arrive along with both my crank seals, one from some warehouse here in california, the other from engineersmate! that seal got here before my two transmission seals had even shipped!
with everything needed to put the crankcase half of the engine back together, i decide to go for it. also, i cleaned everything up a bit.
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not only were they super cheap and super quick, engineersmate also has a super rad seal on the baggy! a seal! GET IT??? ok, that’s enough.
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popped the crank in and bolted it all together. i don’t realize it yet, but i totally put the crank in upside down. even though i checked it before i put it together, i still managed to goof it up. i realize it later and pull it apart and put it back together proper.

my transmission seals still haven’t shipped at this point, so i check engineersmate again and, sure enough, they have them for a lot less than the ones on amazon. i cancelled my amazon order and gave those britts my money and i expect i’ll probably have them sometime this week.

in the meantime i decided to go ahead and rebuild the transmission. the seals go in from the outside, so i figured it’s better to put the thing together rather than just have a bunch of parts in a bucket.
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TA-DAAA! again, total fail on getting step-by-step photos. whatever.

the carb needed a good cleaning and a rebuild, so i did that next. you know how to rebuild a sha i’m sure, so here’s it after. pretty!
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decomp got tore down, lapped in and put back together. new copper gasket.
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the cylinder cleaned up nice! so did the head, but no photos of that i guess.
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stock, the piston covered almost a quarter of the port windows in the cylinder at bdc. had i more time, i would have gotten some alum plate and made a ship to get the cylinder up to where it should be, and then deck the cylinder down to get the compression back to normal. i just want to get this thing on the road right now, though, so i just made myself a thick base gasket. it helped a lot, but the piston still doesn’t totally clear the windows. it’s hard to see, but here are some pictures.
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if this thing ends up being a reliable runner, i’ll pull the top end off and do some work to it.

oh hey, there’s the head all cleaned up!
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reinstalled the electrics and the clutch junk. also loosely installed the sprocket and other bits that go on the outside so that i don’t lose anything. once the transmission seals show up, i’ll pull that stuff back off, slap those seals in and button everything back up for good.
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then i’ll throw it back in the bike and do a compression test. if it’s lower than i’d like, i’ll pull the cylinder again and take some more meat off the top (so far i’ve only done a little, mostly to make sure the cylinder and head were square to each other). it’s a stock moped, though, so it’s not like i’m going for super high compression.

once the engine’s in and i’m happy, i’m going to ride the crap out of it and see what else it’s going to need before the rally. i have already replaced all the cables (less decomp, but i’ll do it when i put the engine back in) and both chains. wish i could do sprockets, but those are weird and i’m not going to be able to find them. i’m thinking maybe tires, but i don’t know if i have the cash right now. if i do end up doing tires, i’m going to rebuild the wheel bearings while i have the wheels off. i’m thinking about dropping the fork and doing the headset bearings too, just to do them.

i should also think about registering it before the rally maybe. hmm.
it should make a fun rally bike!
i hope it can blast stock ciaos.

oh, and here are those rear pulley pics i took forever ago and never posted! such a weird bike.
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L’s magnum and some laguna stuff!

a while ago i got L’s magnum up on my lift to pull apart the transmission and check out the shift pucks. the bike has 201 miles on it, but it has been sitting for many years and i didn’t want to just assume they were still in good shape.

well, they totally were.
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everything in there was in great shape. totally not suprised, the whole bike is clean and in good shape. it was just one of those better-safe-than-sorry things.
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besides, i still had the low mile PAZ pucks that were removed from sparkle butt when the prototype atomic pucks went in. since i had this thing opened up, i figured i’d throw them in.
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i threw on a new clutch cover gasket and sealed everything back up and topped it off with atf.
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since i’m putting this thing back on the road for L, and this is pretty much her first real 2 wheeled ride out side of bicycles and the hobbit she rode around for a bit, i am making it as little and compact as possible. i decided the rack had to go (though i’m keeping it so that it can be thrown back on for possible camping adventures or whatever) and the rear fended needed bobbed so that the tire was the thing that stuck out the furthest.
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first pulled the carb to run it through our ultrasonic cleaner. it’s always a good idea to get that going while you’re doing other stuff to minimize sitting around time. while the carb’s cooking, i can take care of little stuff.
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new fuel line, fuel filter. stuck a drill to the crank and turned it over enough to make sure the oil pump is pumping as it should. replaced the starting cable.
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pulled the rear fender off and removed the tail light, then kinda eyeballed where i wanted the fender to end, rolled the fender back and chopped off the front of it to retain the stock lip on the rear (and keep that sweet ‘the marvelous moped’ sticker intact).
the carb was done by this point, so i rebuilt and reinstalled it.
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i picked up a little led tail light for the rear. i think the stock lighting coil should run it ok? we’ll see. i haven’t mounted it up yet, because i’m still trying to decide if i want to drill holes in that perfect trunk or not. i did run the wires for it, though.
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with the carb reinstalled, pump working as it should and a new sparkplug thrown in, i hooked up a fuel iv and fired it up with my drill. the thing started right up and proceeded to smoke out the whole 2nd floor of our building. it was awesome.
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i’ve since installed a new petcock after unsuccessfully rebuilding the stock tap (i can’t find a proper rubber piece for it) and replaced the left hand grip. i also pulled the pipe apart and cleaned it out as best as i could, but it’s still pretty smokey.
i need to get some brake knarps, trim up the stock brake cables and then i can go ride the thing around and hopefully burn out the rest of the junk in the pipe.
then it’s a matter of wiring it up proper and getting the plate for it and L can finally start ripping it around sacramento!

in other news, the kickstart guts for the laguna’s gpr engine finally showed up from europe!
so i pulled the clutch cover on that engine and went to work installing the parts.
it required me to remove the clutch itself, which i wanted to do while i was in there anyway. the clutch pads look alright, maybe a tiny bit worn. i think they will be fine for now. also, it’s got yellow springs in the clutch, i have no idea if those are stock or not.
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everything where it goes.
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i don’t have a replacement clutch cover gasket just yet, so it’s not quite ready to go all back together, plus i need to fix some shady stuff the previous owner did to this engine. for example, see those marks on the clutch’s face plate? they are from the oil level bolt being replace with one that was too long, it was dragging on the clutch. how do you not notice that?

i also remembered that the previous owner had said the cylinder had some porting done to it. i figured now was as good a time as any to pop the top off and have a look. the porting is actually pretty ok. everything looks clean and nothing looks horrible. i’ll run it as is.
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i bolted the engine back together loosely until i get new gaskets for everything, and put it aside. i hope to be able to afford to get the parts sometime soon, it would be awesome to have that bike on the road this summer at some point.

but then, i have so many project sitting up here..
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moto guzzi trotter is a weirdo, you guys.

lately i’ve been spending what free time i have at the shop working on wrapping up L’s magnum and poking at dirty, but the other day i had ten minutes before having to go catch a megabus back to sac so i decided it was time to pull the trotter out and give it a little quick love. mostly i needed to pull the belt off to see about a replacement.
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the belt is delaminating and is a bit shredded. since this is the non-variated trotter, i figure any old v-belt that’s roughly the same size should cut it.
to remove the belt, i removed the six m6 nuts from the studs in the rear split pulley and took the pulley itself apart. i didn’t get pictures of the pulley apart because i was kind of in a hurry and i didn’t think to bust out the camera, but when i put everything back together i’ll be sure to grab some.

the rear pulley is weird (this whole bike is weird), between the two pulley halves is about 8 – 10 shims, spacing the pulley cheeks apart. if one were to leave out a few of the shims, the pulley would be closed up tighter, putting the belt further out, making the rear pulley taller. more spacers and the pulley would be wider, allowing the belt to ride lower and making the pulley shorter. interesting, as you can pretty much change your gearing by leaving out or putting in shims – however, doing so will require different belts as there’s nothing to take up belt slack.
i was able to get a belt that was about 6mm shorter (1/2″x5/16″x27″) for around $5 on mcmaster carr.

since the belt came off in like 3 minutes, i figured i’d pull the clutch apart and check it out real quick. oh man, what a weirdo clutch! this is when i figured i’d better bust out the camera.
it looks normal enough from the outside. some weirdo brand called “SURFLEX” with a neat little logo.
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i used my handy flywheel holder tool and popped the nut off, then used one of my pullers from my flywheel puller set (i forget which one) and the clutch came right off.
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what the heck! so weird! that’s 100% clutch material on a springy steel split O thing with a metal engagement tab on the clutch’s driver face thingy. so, like, that little metal tab in that split is what drives the whole moped. it is essentially doing the same job as the pins in a puch clutch. the inside of that whole unit acts as the starter clutch drum, similar to what vespa’s got going on in their moped clutches.

this is the starter clutch inside the clutch drum, looks pretty typical. and rusty.
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again, nothing special.
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and everything laid out. it was actually a little big of work to get that clutch material O ring thing on and off the clutch plate.
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the actual drum itself wouldn’t come off the crank. i might not have been putting enough effort into trying to get it off, but i didn’t have a lot of time to be messing with things so i left it alone for the time being.
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also, in that picture you can see that weirdo split rear pulley.

hopefully the belt will be in early next week and i can slap it on and be stoked. the bike starts up pretty easily with a drill, but the belt was slipping too much before to pedal start it. maybe with a new belt i can finally ride the sucker around a little!

gettin dirty – yz80 suspension on dirty general PT4; THE CONCLUSION

last post i kinda showed you my solution to tieing the linked suspension into the general’s frame; a tubesteel loop that mounts to the outside of the swingarm as well as anchors the lower links.
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once tieing the lower part of the loop (made from handlebar u-bends and a bit of tube steel i had laying about) into the flat steel swingarm mounts, i needed to figure out a way to mount the lower link to it. after digging around the shop forever i found a pair of generic vespa scooter mirror mounts that did the job well.
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after cutting them up a bit they totally worked out perfect.
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after welding them on, i cut some more u-bends and tied everything to the frame.
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i filled in all the gaps between the handlebar u-bends and the metal plates on the lower half of the loop, and will do the top half later, because i plan to grind everything smooth and make the loop kinda blend into the swingarm mounts. those square plates will get shaped too. it’ll all be smooth and pretty when done.

so the suspension is fully mounted now! that’s exciting.
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now to work on getting the engine and transmission all fitted up and worked out.
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this is roughly how the hobbit final drive transmission will be mounted in the frame.
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i have a brake plate that i shaved all brake related bits and nubs from, though it’s in a box somewhere. for now i’m mocking up with this other brake plate.
as you can see, i have the brake plate inside out from how it would be on a hobbit. i did this because with the brake plate bolted flush to the outside of the frame, it puts the final drive unit right where i want it. i think.
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this is one of my ideas, anyway. i have another one kicking around that would put the final drive much more inboard on the frame, but i gotta mess with things some more before i know for sure.
also, i’m waiting on the sprocket adapter i made and sent up to naz in seattle to be shipped back before i can get too serious and start welding up brackets and things.

in the meantime i still need to figure out a steering stop to keep the yz80 forks from smashing the tank and a subframe to support my butt.
hopefully i’ll be able to bust that stuff out in the coming weeks and have this thing ready to roll by 2014! yeah!

:/

gettin dirty – yz80 suspension on dirty general PT3

last post i had a little animated gif with the rear of dirty on in one frame, then chopped off in the next with the yz shock stuffed in there, like so –
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since then i’ve set about to get the dumb shock mounted in there proper. i just happened to have some flat steel left over from the dirtbag virago laying around that was exactly what i needed.

i really need a drill press –
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after some drilling and chopping and welding, i got the upper mount all sorted. it’s not the prettiest thing i’ve ever made, but then again this bike isn’t really meant to be pretty.
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the shock is offset on the swingarm by about 1cm to make room for the drive chain, which put the upper mount flush on one side of the frame.
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next, and what i’m still working on, is fabbing up a mounting point for the lower link. you can see it just hanging out here –
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i explored many different options of doing this, but what i decided on was to build a loop that supports the outside of the swing arm, simular to the way the yz frame would have, and also ties in the lower link.

i chopped up some bars and some random tubing to make the lower loop. yeah, it’s ugly, but that’s alright.
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i cut a couple chunks off my flat stock and drilled the centers for the swingarm pivot bolt. i had measured the width of the swingarm before building the loop, so i knew how wide to make it. i’ll notch the loop so that the flat stock rectangles will slide into them, and then weld the three pieces together. it’ll sit like so –
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kinda.

then i’ll use more handlebar u-bends to tie the tops of those rectangle plates into the frame, and more flat stock to tie the lower link into the lower part of the loop.

later on, when i’m mounting my pedal shaft, i’ll probably tie the lower part of the loop into the engine mounts i’ve yet to fabricate. we’ll see how all that goes when i get there.

so here’s dirty sitting pretty much where it’ll be sitting stance wise –
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i haven’t had more than maybe two hours a week to work on it lately, so it’s been kinda slow going. i hope to get the swingarm loop done next week, as well as gussetting the frame up near the head tube and fabbing up some kind of steering stop so that the tank doesn’t get beat to death by the fork.

oh yeah! speaking of the tank, i’ve been kinda thinking about what i’m going to do about the gas cap. the stock one is there, but the lock/latch is missing. it’s totally not that important during this part of the build, but it’s something that will need addressing eventually.
last week i bought a box of sachs parts from swoops will d, and he loaded it up with all kinds of random awesomeness, including this! –
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the latch/lock for a general gas tank! best part is that it uses the same key as my other general tank. one key for both bikes! that’s awesome.

and that’s it for now. this thing’s a ton of fun to work on, even without access to tools and machines that would make life so much easier. it’s showing me that all i REALLY need to build fun stuff is a welder, a cut off wheel, drill and some c-clamps.

gettin dirty – yz80 suspension on dirty general PT2

my headset reamer/facer showed up and i was finally able to get busy getting my fork on.
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i can totally see why bike shops charge so much to do this, IT SUCKS. then again, it’s probably not very often bike shops are cutting the cup seats into fresh tubing, they are more typically just cleaning everything up on an existing cup seat. anyway, yeah. even with a generous amount of tap oil, this probably took me a good 45min to do.
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the finished product looks a little rough, but it’s actually quite smooth and the cup presses in nicely.
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i then attempted to assemble the fork and realized i didn’t cut the head tube short enough still and had to take another centimeter or so off, then re-ream/face the dumb thing. GAH.

i also discovered the steering stem where the bottom race presses on on the yz80 tripple tree is of a much smaller diameter than any moped fork. it’s the same size/thread at the top for the threaded race/nut, but the bottom race is too small. such a stupid oversight.

so i was left doing a lot of measuring with calipers on 100 different fork, texting back and forth with david at treats about different races they had in stock and getting distracted on the internet when i was trying to research different size bearing races, i decided i was being stupid and ordered a shim bearing from mcmastercarr.com.
i found one that once pressed on would allow a race that treats had in stock to press on over it. the whole process took me wailing on my park race installation tool with a 16oz hammer, a copious amount of fire and wanging my left hand with that hammer i mentioned just a second ago before everything was seated nice and tight on the fork. then i had to trim off the excess shim so that it wouldn’t hang on the lower cup and it all went together awesomely. almost.

a little bit ago i said i didn’t trim enough off the head tube on the frame and so i had to cut more off, well as it turns out i cut off about 1mm too much. all of the threaded upper bearing races i had would bottom out on the threaded part of the steering stem before getting tight on the bearing. in the end i used another lower race that fit tightly over the steering stem, locked down with a lock nut. it’s the same way the stock yz80 headset works, and once the upper triple was on with the head tube bolt installed and tightened, the thing was together nice and tight and smooth as butter. smooth butter.

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here’s most of the bike roughly laid out where everything will go when it’s together.
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erm. something like that. and here it is again, but up on two wheels.
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next up, that pesky rear suspension. this is gunna be gooooood.

TO BE CONTINUED…

sparkle butt maxi

a couple weeks ago i got sparkle but to sac thanks to my buddy ryan. it’s been super nice on the weekends lately and i’ve gotten to go out on a couple rides. this is such a fun bike!
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i think i’ll probably be out on it again this weekend, i’ll see if i can’t setup my gopro and get some fun video.

i really wish i could capture the color on this thing, it’s so rad.
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this bike is doug’s west coast rally bike now, and after all the trouble he had with the laguna i’m going to keep riding it now and again to make sure it’s in great shape for him the next time he’s here.

oh, and sorry about not updating this as often as i was for a while there. i’ve been working on dirty and a few other bikes, taking pictures for big updates and stuff, i just haven’t posted anything in a bit.
i do upload pictures a bunch to my instagram, though. follow me there if you want more stuff more often!

gettin dirty – yz80 suspension on dirty general

i’ve been putting off posting about this until i got further along, but it’s taking longer than i thought it would due to me having to buy a couple tools to get the job done, so whatever.

firstly, to mount the swingarm to the frame, i needed to ream out the 10mm tube steel to 12mm for the swing arm bolt. the tube steel was thick enough that i would still have plenty of meat, so i wasn’t too worried about it.
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i bought a 12mm ream, but there was no way i was going to be able to ream the thing with a hand drill, so i went down to my buddies machine shop to see if i could get him to work it out for me. i left him the frame and the reamer and later that day he called me to tell me he totally goofed and thought i wanted it at 13mm, so he made me a whole new sleeve and tig welded it in for me.
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after sanding the weld down on both sides, the swingarm went right on. the suspension link ran into the frame where the kickstand mounts were, as i knew it would, but that’s gunna go anyway.
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so i sliced the bottom of the frame off under the swing arm. i will be welding in a mount for the lower link, but before i do that i have to figure where the front will sit, as the lower link mount will dictate the height of the rear of the bike.
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i mean, this might look like a mess
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but i’ve done more with less in the past.

as you can see, the rear shock is going to want to go right through the rear of the frame there. the plan at the moment is to chop that curved square steel out of the altogether and replace it with two tube steel pieces on either side of the shock, like your typical motorcycle subframe.
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that will come later. first i gotta get the fork on this thing.

the problem with the yz80 fork is that the steer tube is too short for the general frame. originally i was planning on pressing the steer tube out of the lower fork triple and press in a longer bicycle steer tube, both the yz80 and the general frame use a steer tube the same diameter as your typical 1″ bicycle headset.
i decided this was more work than it was worth.
the head tube on the general frame is super long, however there is a large gusset supporting most of it. i figured i could cut the gusset off, shorten the head tube and modify the gusset and weld it back in. it should look pretty stock except, perhaps, with nicer welds than the boogery stock welds. hopefully. that’s on me, though.
so yeah, off with that gusset!
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then i put the fork triple trees together with the general’s headset cups on the steer tube, measured about how long the head tube needed to be, scored an even line around the bottom of the head tube and then chopped that sucker off.
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the only issue with this is that the inside of both ends of the head tube are machined for the bearing cups. except it’s not on the bottom, not any more.
this is the part that makes or breaks this whole project. not only is it super tricky (nearly impossible) to cut a steer tube perfectly parallel with the fancy machines currently at my disposal (pipe cutter, hacksaw and a cut off disk on an air drill), but i have nothing to machine the inside of the tube for the bearing cup.
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knowing some bicycle shops have head tube facing/reaming tools that will make sure the head tube is flat on both sides and reams a nice little machined surface inside for your bearing cup, i called around to a half dozen shops here in the city to get some quotes. of the seven shops i called, only four had the tool, and only one of the four had the bits to do 1″ head tubes as 1 1/8″ is the “standard” for most bikes these days.
the one shop that had the tool quoted me $75.
that might be fair but the tool can be had for around $300, and i have at least two other general frames that will be getting this same front end once i’ve worked out the kinks, so i decided it would be worthwhile to just buy the dumb thing.

so that’s where i’m at. once the tool shows up, i’ll ream/face the head tube, trim up the gusset and weld it back on, install the fork with the general’s stock headset, figure out where the swing arm’s lower link is going to go and build a bracket for it. then i get to build a subframe for the thing! yay!
and once all THAT is done, it’s finally time to start figuring out how i’m going to put my engine on this dumb thing.

prototype atomic ZA50 pucks

atomic mopeds and sf moped mechanic andy has got these new 2 speed pucks he’s wanting to prototype, so i’m letting him throw a set in sparkle butt to see how it goes. they are harder than the standard atomic pucks and supposed to be more durable for big boy kitted ZAs.

andy dropping the oil
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these are a set of unfinished prototypes, the completed ones have been flattened on the edges…
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…as seen here.
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i didn’t really get any pictures of the process, as i was working on a scooter on the other lift for first kick. here’s sparkle butt all buttoned up after, though.
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he plans to rip around on it some next week, and then hopefully i’ll be getting it to sacramento where it’ll be my little sac ripper. it’s doug’s rally bike, but i want to keep it fresh and make sure it’s not a pain in the ass for him like the laguna always was.

also, new shop toy awaiting a cart that should hopefully show up any day now
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super stoked!


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