Tomahawk Cup race bike

Don’t know what the Tomahawk Cup is? read this! –,3527560,page=1

These are the classes as they were hashed out and as they currently stand –

Stockish Class
– No custom frames
– Pedals or Kickstart
– Stock Cylinder ONLY
– 15 mm carb limit
– Aftermarket pipe allowed
– Variated bikes allowed with no launch lever
– Any factory chassis or engine parts can be swapped to build a stock frankenbike.

Non-Variated Class
– < 75cc Kits air cooled
– No carb limit
– 1 and 2 speeds
– Moped H20 < 50cc kits

Variated Class
– < 75cc kits air cooled
– Bo carb limit
– Moped H20 < 50cc kits

Unlimited Class
– < 99cc kits

While I have a billion projects, a few of which might be fun in some of those classes, I decided to do a Puch E50 build for the non-variated class. I have already done the crazy, complicated, weirdo concept super race bike thing for the Polini Cup all those years ago and was totally burned when no one showed up to race and the series got canceled, so I decided I would build something simple, easy and, most importantly, CHEAP to go racing with. Worst case scenario – this race circuit bombs like the Polini Cup and I have a super rad Maxi to rip around on that didn’t cost a bunch of money and end up too much a headache to put on the street (ala VX4).

Chris Paz hooked me up with a frame. Well, most of a frame. It’s going to need some stuff welded back on, namely some shock mounts, but it’s free and a rad platform to build on!
I may take his work further and cut the seatpost part of the frame off and just build something out of tube steel to sit on, I’m not sure yet.

Other parts I already have laying around are a set of E50 cases, a 17″ disk brake front wheel, a couple different french bike pipes to choose from (Doppler and Doppler clones, I think? Not much of a choice really.), and this thingy-
KTM 50 CDI, same setup I’ve been running on ciaociao for yeeeears. Mr. Naz up in Seattle built this for someone forever ago and I ended up with it.
It’ll be perfect!

My plan for the engine build is going to be a heavily ported Gila on that 77 stuffy crank with the 77 Super Clutch. I’m going to use a pull start, so I’ll ditch the stock starting bits and cut the starting plate off the clutch to lighten it up some. I’ve also got some clutch bell mods in store, as well as lightening the main gear. I’m going to balance all those bits too while I’m at it.
I’ll probably run one of the 24mm carbs I have laying around.

The new Garage will be out soon and I’ll be documenting the build over there, but I’ll link it up over here too when ever I have updates.

This should be a fun build! I can’t wait to get back on the track!

2 Responses to “Tomahawk Cup race bike”

  1. 1 Jacob Larsen Sun09|0808|2015 at 2:19 am

    Hey! Came across yours site in my search for info on KTM ignition.

    I have a simalar ignition, but cant figure out how to set timing since there is no marks .. I was hoping you were able to point me in the right direction?


    • 2 terrydean Sun09|0808|2015 at 4:32 pm

      If there’s a mark on the flywheel, it’ll be easy. If there’s not, it’ll still be easy, but you’ll need to put a mark on the flywheel. It doesn’t really matter where on the flywheel you put it.

      I’ll usually get the piston at TDC then point the mark at the front of the engine. Draw a line or whatever on the stator to indicate that’s TDC. Now use your calipers or whatever back the piston up to wherever you want your spark (Xmm BTDC), now make another mark where the line is pointing. Ok, great.

      Once you have a marked flywheel (whether it came that way or you made your own mark, don’t matter none) and stator, pull the plug from the head and ground it on the fins. Turn the engine over either with a drill, have someone pedal the bike, or do whatever you gotta do to get it spinning. Faster the better. You’re gonna need a timing light, but you probably already knew that and have one in hand, yeah? If not, stop what you’re doing and go get one. Even a crappy one’ll do.

      Now, with the engine spinning like mad and your crappy timing light hooked up and flashing, find your flywheel mark with the light strobe. Put a little dot or whatever on the flywheel where the flywheel mark is landing under the strobe so you know where you’re firing. You can stop spinning the engine over now.

      So now you have 3 marks; TDC, Xmm BTDC (where you want the fire), and where the fire is. The rest is easy. Line your flywheel up with the dot you made when found the fire with the strobe light, pop the flywheel off (without turning the crank), and then put the flywheel back on with the flywheel mark lining up with your Xmm BTDC line. Tighten the fucker down and that should do it! Obviously you’ll want to check your work with the strobe once more, but as long as you didn’t goof it up you should be good to go.

      Hope this helps! Let me know if any of that wasn’t clear enough.


Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 121 other followers

  • 25,416 yous guys

%d bloggers like this: