ongoing vespa rally 200 restoration

other than a little more cleaning up of some embarrassing welds and a little more straightening out of bodywork, the rally’s about ready to go to paint.

i welded up all of the holes a previous owner put in the thing to add crash bars and what not, as well as filled all of the cowl mounting holes for the left side cowl as it’s getting a glovebox cowl from an old super. this is pretty much my first time filling holes in sheet metal like this, so it wasn’t a pretty process. it came out alright in the end, though. besides, the paint shop will be adding some body filler here and there, so it doesn’t have to be perfect. i could have gotten it perfect eventually, but time and budget won’t allow it.

goober welds on the leg shield

back of leg shield and top of floorboard

rear fender, plus the start of me flattening/filling the cowl pivot pin hole. also, you can see here that the stock location of the battery box has it hanging down in front of the cut out along the bottom of the frame. that cutout is there to aid in the removal of the rear wheel for changing tires and what not.

the “new” cowl. it bolts to the side of the scooter with six bolts with a rubber gasket going around the edge between cowl and frame. it’s pretty much water tight once all together, so i had to fill any and all holes behind the cowl that are no longer being used.

here you can see the tabs that hold the cowl to the side of the scooter. also, notice the cowl has a simular cutout as the frame for the rear tire. on a super the frame has a kind of bubble skirt rather than a cut out, to seal against the cowl. this was the biggest bummer about doing this as i had to fabricate a ‘bubble skirt’ to fill that gap and try to keep tire changes as hassle free as possible.

before i could try to work out a solution to that gap i had to do something about the battery box hanging down in the way. that wasn’t a big deal, though. i just cut the bottom of the box out of the the bike, cut a couple inches out of sides of it so that the bottom of the box would clear the skirt and then weld it back together.

the only issue here is that the battery kind of sits back in a hole a little bit, raising the bottom of the box meant that the top of the battery would no longer fit neatly into the recess, so i just move the bottom of the box out so the top of the battery would clear the frame. this worked great and when i mocked everything up there was plenty of room to get into the glove box.

then i spent some time trying to make my plugged up holes disappear. there are a few pin holes in a couple of the spots still, i would normally weld those up and grind some more to get rid of them, but time doesn’t allow for that and they will be easy enough to fill with a little body filler.


here you can see some of the holes i added for the cowl mounting bolts. also, the ugly welded up cowl pivot hole is a good example of where the body filler will come in handy.

for filling the gap between the cowl and frame i had to get tricky. i don’t have the tools to make my own curved sheet metal bits, but the front fender from this bike is getting replaced anyway, so i eyeballed some curves i thought would work out and cut them out.

i hammered the bits into slightly different shapes and did my best to weld them in there so that it didn’t look too horrible. since i didn’t measure anything when i cut the parts out, i had a lot of gaps to fill in some spots with a lot of overlapping material in other parts. after a while i was able to get it looking ok and called it good. a little more grinding on some of those super ugly welds and body filler at the paint shop should have it looking pretty good for a part no one will ever see.

so that’s how it sits. i’m going to do a test run installation of the leg shield beading to try and make sure the leg shield is as close to the original shape as i can make it, clean up a couple of those welds a bit more and off to paint it goes.


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